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Graphic Designers East

Graphic Designers East:
Graphic Design services

We’re a group of experienced freelance graphic designers supporting businesses across the entire south of England. We have bases in London, Hampshire, Surrey and Kent, and we also work with clients in Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Oxfordshire, Sussex, Dorset, Wiltshire, Gloucestershire and Somerset.

Try out our Graphic Designers East services:

• Brochures and datasheets
• Ad design
• Business cards, folders and stationery
• Corporate ID development
• Exhibition graphics design & print 

Here's an example of one of our many services:
Graphic Designers East

We provide Graphic Designers services for businesses in East and surrounding regions. A very wide range of customers from many different markets have benefited from the highly professional Graphic Designers projects that we've carried out in East. Our Graphic Designers service is just one of our many specialist services and we strive to maintain very high standards of quality in Graphic Designers and every other service. Clients throughout East have remarked on how they would recommend PRW to other businesses in East.

More about our Graphic Designers service in East: the image below contains some examples of Graphic Designers produced for businesses in East. Contact us for more examples of Graphic Designers in East. Partner locations providing Graphic Designers in East: Hampshire, Berkshire, Surrey, Kent, Oxfordshire, Wiltshire, East and many other regions. From our main base in Basingstoke Hampshire, we can provide expert advice on Graphic Designers East and examples of our Graphic Designers service in East.

 

  

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Portrait lighting

Firstly, Butterfly lighting is another common lighting plan and has been very popular over the past decade or so. In this case, only two lights are commonly used. Normally the Key light is placed directly in front of the subject, often above the camera or slightly to one side, and a bit higher than is common for a three-point lighting plan which is often used. Now, the second light is a rim light lamp. A reflector is placed below the subject's face to provide fill light and soften shadows around the model.

The use of this lighting can be recognised by the strong light falling on the forehead, the bridge of the nose and the upper cheeks, and by the distinct shadow below the nose which often looks rather like a butterfly and thus provides the name for this lighting. The use of Butterfly lighting was a favourite of Hollywood portraitist George Hurrell which is why this style of lighting is often called Paramount lighting, after the movie studio. Lights can be added to basic lighting plans to provide additional highlights or add background definition highlights.

The kicker is a small light, often made directional through the use of a snoot, umbrella, or softbox lamp. A kicker is designed to add highlights to the off-side of the subject's face, usually just enough to establish the jaw line or edge of an ear or nose. A kicker should be a bit brighter than the fill light, but not so bright it over fills the off side of the head. Photographers choose not to use a kicker and settle for the three main lights of the standard lighting.

Background lights are not so much a part of the portrait lighting plan, but rather designed to provide illumination for the background behind the subject. Background lights can pick out details in the background, provide a halo effect by illuminating a portion of a backdrop behind the subject's head, or turn the background pure white.

Most lights used in modern photography are a flash of some sort or other. Lighting for portraiture is typically diffused by bouncing it from the inside of an umbrella, or by using a soft box arrangement. Soft boxes are a fabric box, encasing a photo strobe head, one side of which is made of translucent fabric material. Soft boxes provide a softer lighting for portrait work and is often considered more appealing than the harsh light often cast by open strobe lights.

Most hair and background lights are usually not diffused at all. Normally it's more important to control light spillage to other areas of the subject matter. Use snoots, barn doors and flags or gobos help focus the lights exactly where the photographer wants them to be. Some background lights are sometimes used with colour gels placed in front of the light to create coloured background effects.

 

  

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Balanced composition

Informal balance gives uneven or unequal balance in the picture. When you have a large object in the picture it should be counter-balanced with a smaller object or objects to make a good layout.

Imagine a seesaw with a 5-year-old boy on one side and his Father on the other. The balance will be uneven as the father is larger and will make the seesaw heavier. Now the boy will be high in the air and the Father will be on the ground.

Now, in a photo scene, if you have a large tree on the right side of the picture frame then you must try to balance it with a smaller object such as a house, a small tree or even the figure of a person on the other side of the picture. The ways you balance the objects in your picture frame will determine the success or failure of the photo. You will have to resort to the use of different types of lenses in order to create the balance you require.

A very wide angle lens can create unbalanced composition very easily by taking the objects in front of the lens up close. The front objects will appear very large in the picture frame while the rear or distant objects will appear smaller even though they are actually larger still.

One way to create unequal balance is to find a position that will cause one object to appear larger or smaller because of the angle you took the shot. When you are out creating photographs be sure to keep these rules about balance in mind and try to incorporate them.

Smack in the centre is a definite no, no in good photo-composition rules. With the main subject right smack in the centre of the picture area it is called a Bull's Eye composition. Avoid this at all times, unless you have a definite reason for doing so. When the main subject is in the center of the picture frame the eye will go in to the picture and stay in the center of the frame looking at the main subject and will not move around in the picture to see and enjoy any other items in the image. now, the eye will get tired very fast and lose interest in the photo.

The purpose in taking photographs is to have people look at them, enjoy them, and talk about them. When they cannot get interested in a photograph they will not bother to look at it. It's best to always have the main subject off-centre in the image. Just a little off-centre it will improve the picture's composition.

 

  

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Holiday photo composition

Try to be very careful with the composition and subject matter. Note that one thing you can do to improve your photography is good composition and layout ideas. Older manuals used to say that you should place your subject in the middle of the photo image. Note that this was because viewfinders showed more than would end up in your picture, but it usually looks poor.

Try to imagine three equally-spaced lines running across your image both horizontally and vertically lined up. Note that where the lines meet are the strongest areas to place your object. Of course, you don't need to draw lines on your viewfinder to do this, however, just practice putting your subjects off-centre. Now try taking a few shots from different angles, you'll get the hang of it quite quickly.

Always shoot slightly more than you want in the picture, because when you get prints, your images may end up getting cropped to fit the print. Now, if you have photo editing software, you can crop it yourself to the right size so that it looks the best possible. Try not to go over board with the extra space, though, because printing a small portion of a larger image will result in poor quality results.

Photographing landscapes will help capture the feeling of a place, but too often they are boring. Placing something in the foreground will jazz up your landscape scenes. For example, a lone fisherman on the lake in front of majestic mountains not only adds interest to the shot, it shows just how huge the mountains actually were. Try leading lines, which are good in any image, and even more so in landscape shots. Leading lines are things like roads, fences, or a line of trees which begin in the foreground and lead the viewer's eye to the background of the scene.

When you're traveling you also want to see people in the scenes. Of course, there's nothing wrong with photographing your companions by a famous landmark, but remember to use creative layout. Avoid the "people standing in a line in front of a monument" snapshot by taking candid shots. Note that you'll also get more genuine expressions.

The more your subject fills the frame, the better the photo will be. This is especially true for people and animal shots. Now, you probably don't care about your companion's vacation wardrobe; what's important is their face in the photo. Your camera may not have a zoom lens, and you'll be more limited in how tight a shot you can achieve. Look at what's going on in the background of the scene. Avoid a sign sticking out of someone's head or face.

Try photographing local people, this can help tell a story about the place you're visiting, especially if you're in an exotic location. Many people find it rude to be photographed without permission, however. If someone looks upset about you pointing your camera at them, ask if it's okay to take their photo. Flattery may be helpful, and some may even ask for payment.

Interesting photo opportunities are everywhere around you. For example, a bustling market, a cityscape, details of an object or building, a roadside food shack, or a lizard sunning himself can all make great photos. While everyone prefers to remember their travels as pleasant experiences, few places are completely stunning, so do your best!

 

  

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